A summer morning update

It was a beautiful morning – at least it was before breakfast when we were up with the llamas, before it became really hot and windy . . . .

The three walkers (soon to be walkers in a real sense, if we can get ourselves organised for some expeditions next week when Lily and Alfie come to stay) are having a great time on the rough land. (Yes, I know, you’re all waiting for Val’s promised Pooh-corner map . . . . it’s coming, slowly).

You can see that they’ve eaten and rolled their way to a nice flat area, where they spend much of the day surveying the countryside. They seem really relaxed together, and it’s a very calm place to spend time.

Then on to the breeders . . .

You remember Pedro, the stud who suddenly attacked all male llamas in sight, and who would not let himself be touched by anyone?

Well, Val has been working her charms on him for a while now. And her skill and persistence has paid off, so that he will now (literally) eat out of her hand. More than that, she has managed to remove the halter he has been wearing since April. More even than that, he’ll even allow a bit of a cuddle while he eats his breakfast!


Is there no end to this woman’s talents?

Well, next she is to tackle aloof Elif, who is right at the top of the llama hierarchy, and makes all the others quiver with just a glance or a snort.

She’s actually a beautiful llama, with a perfect straight back, and great poise.

She specialises in reaching the tender leaves high up in trees, and has recently taken to bending young oaks over with her neck, even allowing the other females to get in for a nibble while she holds the upper branches in reach.

I can’t wait to see what sort of baby Elif produces. She is pregnant by Pedro, and should be giving birth sometime in August. Apparently, you know when females are within a few weeks of delivery when their teats enlarge. Of course, Elif is far too proud to allow anyone to get close for a look at her teats, so we can be seen occasionally sneaking up on her for a crafty glimpse. . . . .

Capucine, who really could do with a sibling to play with, still runs around like a loony most evenings. She manages to bounce across the field, as though she is using pogo sticks – video to follow, with luck, but so far we’ve just stood open-mouthed watching her perform! She is partially weaned, and eats hay and vegetation, but still doesn’t take any concentrate from us. However, she is now very happy to be stroked each morning, and shows every sign of becoming as friendly and biddable as the delightful Ana.

Posted in Cria, Llamas | Tagged | Leave a comment

Dog days

It’s very hot. Thanks to my new weather station – a brilliant gift from my son Mike – I know just how overpoweringly hot it is . . . . we thought yesterday was a bit much, but today is more than 3 degrees hotter at 34.7°. (If you’re curious, you can see the experimental weather log on this webpage which opens in a new window, and there’s a summary of current conditions in the column to the right of this blog.)

Our French teacher, the admirable Mme Gleizes, has taught us a range of words for this weather: I like ‘un chaleur caniculaire’. La canicule is the French name for the hot weather that coincides with the long summer holiday that most French workers take, and the name has its origins in Latin – with the same root as the English word canine, to do with dogs.

Apparently, the ancient Romans noticed that the hottest days of the year, in July and early August, coincided with the appearance of Sirius – the Dog Star – in the same part of the sky as the Sun. Sirius is the largest and brightest star in the Canis Major constellation, in fact it is the brightest star in the sky. The ancients believed that the star contributed to the heat of the day. And so into French as la canicule, and into English as dog days . . . .

My etymological ramblings should convince you that either I’ve finally cracked up completely, or just that it’s too hot in the middle of the day to do anything except stay fairly still in the shade. The llamas are behaving much the same, with ‘the breeders’ neatly slotted into the shade of the field shelter and ‘the walkers’ lying stretched out to catch as much breeze as possible. You’d have thought that it would be unbearable having a thick fur coat on all day, but they do seem to be coping better than we are. Their drinking rate has increased, meaning we have to make more trips up the hill with large water containers, but the walkers – who have loads of vegetation to browse – still seem to be getting most of their liquid through eating. Not for nothing are they members of the camel family!

Max, being a dog, loves the dog days. The hotter the better. As the sun moves around the house, so does he – so in the late afternoon, for him there’s nowhere better than the balcony, where he can get fully exposed. He’s not so good at walking any more, and rarely runs at all, but lying in the sun is really his specialist subject.

Meanwhile, I manage to dart out into the sun every now and again to water the flagging seedling vegetables. We’re having a courgette glut, and are eating lettuce as fast as we can. The tomato crop should be good. If only I was a bit more organised, we would have a balanced diet. As it stands, we shall have to eat the various components of a good salad each in separate weeks. And I’m definitely losing out to the snails with the radishes and beetroot. My organic beliefs are being sorely tried by the rampant chewing of thousands of molluscs . . . . We hardly ever see any in action, because they have the knack of hiding away from the sun all day and then emerging to feast overnight. Any non-lethal ideas welcomed!

Posted in Life | Tagged | Leave a comment

A Midsummer Day’s Nightmare

Yesterday was midsummer’s day. Exactly six years since we bought this house, and set the ball rolling down the slope of fate toward our present destiny. In the evening, as on our very first night here in 2002, the village celebrated the summer solstice with many hours of wine, food and very bad french music at the Salles des Fetes.

I didn’t join in. Nor, I think, did our friend and neighbour Giles (whose family were new to the village at least 30 years ago) and Veronica (his Chilean wife – who arrived here this March). Outsiders all.

Although I wish to learn to speak French (the lessons are going quite well), and to understand the local culture sufficiently well to be able to get through each day without causing offence, I feel no desire to become a fully ‘integrated’ member of this small society. Indeed, I think it would not be possible. To be a real part of this village, you would have to have been born here, as would your parents and their parents before them.

However, if we can but do no harm, and make no enemies, I will be content. And whilst there are times when I miss the anonymity of the city, and crave the isolation of the hermit, I still feel lucky, and enormously grateful for the life we have here.

Since I last wrote, the weather has turned hot as a very hot thing – between 30 and 33 degrees for most of the day – and not surprisingly, the llamas have got very thirsty. Typically, this hot, dry spell has neatly coincided with Simon’s trip to England, which means Poor Weedy Me has total responsibility for getting vast quantities of water up to the two fields, morning and evening.

Of course, my paranoia about possible llama deaths from heat stress makes me want to keep checking they are all alright, so I’d be visiting them at least twice a day anyway. At least until
a) I am convinced that they really can cope with this climate, or
b) I can’t be bothered any more. (This heat breeds an awesome degree of lethargy).

My visits have to be early in the morning or late in the evening, as any time in between is just too damned hot (I would probably die of heat stress, let alone the llamas). Taking this morning’s quota of 30 litres between the two fields, I discovered that the increased call on the water supply is not just because the llamas are very thirsty. In fact, they seem to have taken to attempting cold baths in the water buckets to cool themselves down. I caught Valentine, Ana and Pedro all sticking their feet and heads right in the water, and splashing about like naughty children in a nursery. No wonder the water gets muddy so quickly.

Since I have yet to pluck up the courage to drive the land rover round to the rough land (given my luck with technological equipment, I’d almost certainly damage something in my amateur attempts to use the various knobs and gears to go off-road), I have been carrying the water for The Walkers all the way from the road near the Breeders. To make myself keep going when my neck and arm muscles are screaming in pain, and biting insects are sticking to the sweat on my forehead, I pretend I’m a marine in training, and fanatasize about how fit and strong I will become. I draw the line at chanting marine-type songs as I march though, for fear of drawing unwelcome attention from the locals that I pass along the way, out early pruning their vines before the sun gets too high.

Not much sign of the body beautiful yet though. Just stretched arms like an ape, sunburnt shoulders, and a face full of itchy, red spots. Oh, Simon is such a lucky man!

Anyway, in the absence of any real news (still no letter from the Notaire or SAFER….quelle surprise), and therefore of anything worth writing about, I have begun work on a “Pooh Corner type map” as suggested by Jane in her comment on the last post. If nothing else, it’s an absorbing way to pass a few hot hours. Apart from that, I have passed the empty days while Simon is away failing to make cherry jam, failing to write poetry, and failing to meditate my way to enlightenment.

Sitting in the shade and solitude of the terrasse, looking out across the summer-filled valley to the distant wildness, is very conducive to the arising of profound and creative thoughts. Unfortunately, the soporific heat is not conducive to the embodiment of such thoughts in any form that requires physical or mental effort. Perhaps, after all, I’m just too idle to become enlightened.

Ah well. There’s always the next life….

Just before I end this midsummer monologue, to return to the cartographic artwork, here’s a thought I’d like to share…

Given the opportunity, would Buddha have meditated in a deck-chair?

Posted in Life, Llamas | Leave a comment

The Waiting is Over

Well. The 17 June arrived and so did the postlady. No post again. Nothing from the Notaire. Nothing from SAFER. Could it really be that this had all been a storm in a teacup?

Whilst beginning to believe that maybe our hopes and plans for the Big Land of our dreams might actually come to pass, I still could not entirely shake off the feeling that it wasn’t over yet. My brother-in-law had warned us about the Last-Minute tendencies of French bureacracy (he had waited the regulation month to find out whether a planning application would be successful, and then received a letter on the very last day of the deadline informing him that it had been turned down), and the continued cheerful greetings of our land-purchase competitor had left me uneasy.

We occupied our minds with other things. We practised getting the breeding llamas in our smallest of small catch-pens, one at a time, as part of a desensitising process aimed at getting them to accept us haltering and unhaltering them.

Fatma didn’t like it at all, and tried to get underneath the wooden gate construction to join her pals. Knowing that we had fixed the hinge problem, so that she couldn’t just lift the gate up like Valentine had, so spectacularly, a few weeks ago, we waited for her to accept the inevitable and settle down. She didn’t. She put her head under the gate, barged forward, broke the wood in half with a gut-wrenching cracking sound, and escaped to the relative freedom of the larger catch pen. She looked at us with a smugly smug expression on her smug llama face.

Foiled again. My god, these damn llamas are strong! And Fatma is the smallest and lightest of the adults! We looked in dismay at the destruction in front of us. It had taken a fair bit of time and effort to create that gate, and it had crumpled in a matter of seconds. We sighed. We tried to envisage our Plan B. I had a feeling it was not going to be a good day.

We returned to the house to nurse our emotional wounds and to wonder once again whether we could actually DO THIS. If we can’t even keep a flighty llama in a small pen to halter it, how on earth are we ever going to trim their toe nails, or move them to another field? Cue another crisis of confidence….

Then ….. an insistent bang at the door. It had to be our friend and neighbour Giles (anyone else would ring the doorbell). Sure enough, there he stood, with a face full of thunder. “I come with the bad news…” he said. He had telephoned the Notaire, and had been told that they had just received (via a Court Bailiff) notification that SAFER was exercising its Droit de Preemption. They had had to deliver the notification this way, as they had left it too late to use the post. The Notaire’s secretary had never known of such a last-minute intervention. (Hard to believe that somehow….).

A few minutes later Giles’ father arrives. Yes it is true. SAFER are buying his land, and they will decide what happens to it. Giles is fuming. We try to be reassuring. “Never mind. It’s not over yet. There will be a consultation process. We can still present our project”. It feels as if the news has affected Giles more than us. Afterall, we’ve sort of been expecting this, and were surpised only that it hadn’t happened earlier. “C’est la vie!” I venture, with a Gallic shrug, pleased at the opportunity to appropriately use one of my few French phrases. Giles is not impressed.

After they leave, we briefly contemplate the situation, before deciding not to think about it any more today. We’ll let our underminds work away at it, while we enjoy a bit of gardening and bird-watching. It’ll all be fine.

The next morning, while driving to the airport for Simon’s trip to England, I confess to a childish sense of disappointment and resentment. I know that both are irrational, and also that I only feel disappointed because, having got right up to the deadline, I had started to believe that we might actually end up buying the land after all. And even though I had tried not to, I had started to plan how we would arrange and fence and use the land. I had begun to expect something. And therein lies suffering. Clearly I am a slow-learner in the Art of Living Happily.

However, I also know that there will come a time when we will look back and be pleased that things turned out the way they did. Because one lesson I have learnt is that blessings very frequently come in disguise.

So, for now we will explore all the options Mme Burgat’s land has to offer, momentarily scale down our plans for our long-term llama breeding enterprise, and enjoy what we have here and now. And at the same time, we’ll research the SAFER procedures from this point, decide what sort of case we want to make, and think about how we might do a deal with Mr Winemaker to at least try to keep the use of the Rough Land where our small herd of Walking Llamas are currently (very happily) spending their lazy days.

Posted in Life, Llamas | Leave a comment

Another month. Another field to conquer.

Last Friday dawned dull and drizzly. At 11.00am, after our morning visit to the llamas, we called at Mme Burgat’s house as arranged. Despite the less-than-perfect weather, Mme Burgat insisted that we should still go to look at her land, and we duly whisked her off in our mud-covered land rover, following her directions along the slippy tracks until we got as far as we could in the car. Again, despite the fact that it was raining, and very muddy, and she was only wearing toeless, backless sandals and no coat, Mme Burgat insisted that she would be fine holding my arm and her walking stick, to proceed at a snail’s pace down the last 100 meteres of undriveable track, to get to the entrance to her ‘field’.

It has obviously been a very long time since she has been anywhere near it, and she was somewhat horrified to discover how overgrown it had become. In fact it was impossible to get into it without some serious ‘debrousaillage’ happening first, so after a difficult (and a bit scarey) turning manoevre, we returned to Mme Burgat’s house, to look at her very big, very old cadastral plans of the bits of land she owns, and to hear the stories of her husband’s love of the countryside, and his sudden death aged 59yrs, while out in the countryside, collecting snails.

When Sunday arrived with a bit of sunshine, Simon headed off to Mme Burgat’s field with his trusty brush-cutter, while I did the rounds with our dog Max, to visit and feed the llamas. When I eventually arrived at Mme Burgat’s field, Simon had managed to cut a narrow path through the blackthorn, down one side of the field.

I approached with a sinking heart, realising that, if we agreed to use this land, another big load of hot and difficult work lay ahead of us before it would be fit for llama occupation. Simon, in a more optimistic mood, struck out through the middle of the sea of blackthorn, heading for the middle of the enclosure, to see if there was any open, grassy space that would make the land usable. I looked for a shady spot to leave the dog, while getting the tree-loppers and camera from the car. Then, (clearly determined that Simon should not continue to be cheerful while I was feeling so depressed) I very cleverly managed to shut the heavy back door of the land rover, on his camera. Twice.

I honestly didn’t do it on purpose – I had put it down whilst faffing with the dog, forgotten it was there, and tried to shut the door. When the door jammed the first time, I didn’t see what had stopped it shutting, and so slammed it again even harder. When it STILL didn’t shut, I looked again more carefully, and then noticed a little black (slightly crushed) object that I realised, with horror, was the camera in its leather case. With sweating hands, I took it out the case, hoping beyond hope that by some miracle of anti-physics that it would have survived the double blow intact. (I can be stupidly optimistic sometimes). I stared at the strange purple-yellow patterns on the digital screen, recognising the telltale signs of terminal screen-crack. It looked just like the broken screen on the car battery solar-charger that I had managed to squash when loading the car back in March. I switched it on, and the moving parts moved. Perhaps, since it also has a viewfinder, it might still be possible to take photos?

A few sick moments passed while I debated putting the camera back where I’d found it and pretending to know nothing about it, or perhaps telling Simon that the wind had blown the door shut on it. How could I have been so stupid and clumsy? How could this not totally spoil his day?
Of course, the childish urge to avoid taking reponsibility for my actions quickly passed, and I shambled back down the blackthorn-strewn path-of-doom to confess my sin.

Simon, bless him, was cool as a cucumber about it. Lessons in non-attachment seem to come along thick and fast these days. I swear that despite all my worthy efforts at self-improvement, Simon is racing ahead of me along the path of enlightenment, without even trying.

Anyway, I followed him through the second prickly lane he had cut, to the centre of the field, where the blackthorn thicket gradually gave way to a forest of ash saplings and some very long grass. I took a couple of photos using the view-finder to frame the pictures, and discovered that the zoom didn’t work either. (Bum. It won’t be as simple as just getting a new screen for it off ebay, then!)

Standing in the middle of this ‘clearing’ it was hard to see the boundaries, and it became obvious that fencing this land would not be as straightforward as we might have hoped. But then it never is!

I guess we’ll manage. It’ll be hard, but it’ll get done and the difficulty will pass. At least the land is only gently sloping, rather than steep, and is pretty much rectangular.

And Mme Burgat will be so very pleased to see it brought back from the brink of blackthorn annihilation, and used again as animal pasture, as it was when she and her husband were young and full of dreams.

And we still have another area of her land to go and look at, as soon as the weather is reliably dry, and the tracks up the hillside to the south of the village are passable enough for an old lady to engage in another countryside trip down memory lane.

Posted in Environment, Life | Tagged | Leave a comment

Relocation update

I was worried last night that Ana would not have settled down with Duc/Valentine. Things started well, but deteriorated. This video shows them tolerating each other – but then at 32 seconds there is the best shot I have seen of a llama spitting to warn another off.

Everyone seems to know that llamas spit – and we have learned that there are many degrees and types of this behaviour (that’s got to be worth a post of its own in due course). This case was at the mildest end, and Duc was only being assertive about his personal space. However, by mid afternoon, Ana was refusing to stay near the other two, and she would not come to me for any tempting food either. I returned several times to the field and eventually, late in the evening, I was delighted to see the three of them grazing together.

This morning, all three were quickly down to the catch pen to eat some concentrate. Although there was obviously still some tension, they were content to be in a pretty small space together, and all three allowed us to touch them.

When they had eaten a snack, they were happy to return to the field as a group.

Ana does seem to be settling in. Within a week I think theyll be hanging round together like best mates . . . .

Posted in Llamas | Tagged , | Leave a comment